DIY Oil Change Observations

Aug 28, 2024
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I decided to do an initial oil change at 1,400 miles using an OEM filter (90915-YZZN3) and oil (Lexus 0W-20). While the benefits of an early initial oil change are debatable, I went ahead for my peace of mind and curiousity as to how easy it would be when I tackle this regularly post-warranty. Here are my casual observations:

1. Skid Plate removal: While a bit tedious to remove the plate, 3 of the 6 holes in the plate (10mm bolts with washers) are tabbed to clear the washer so you don't fully remove those bolts and can slide the plate to remove. Reinstallation is a one person job as you can slide the plate back into place hanging by the bolt/washers and tighten. Nice quality bolts and plate! I took some time to look at the under regions of the GX here. Fun to check out new, non-rusted components. No leaks!

2. Oil pan plug removal and drain: High quality 14mm flanged drain bolt. I expected to experience an ugga dugga torque spec but amazingly the bolt backed off readily. Suggesting some level of care from the factory. The blue replacable washer behind the bolt was stubborn. Don't forget to remove it. Double-stacking washers is no good (dealer included a new washer with the filter, if ordering online, not sure if included with filter. Washer part no. 90430-12031). Required a flat razor blade wedged between pan and washer and a solid hit to break it free. Not entirely satisfying. Oil drains in solid stream and not a multi angle spray like some cars I've dealt with. Nice.

3. Filter removal and drain. This is the epic part of the oil change. The built-in catch pan with hose-ready drain below the filter is a marvel. Not a drip lost to a frame rail or my arm. Thanks Lexus! I used a 5/8 ID tube and ran it to an oil disposal jug. Not a tight fit, so don't go yanking on that tube or perhaps try something slightly smaller diameter if you prefer. I enlisted a Performance Tool filter wrench (65mm, 14 flutes) part no. W54117 as the original filter was set to 1 ugga dugga. Pic below of filter removal business. Lots of room to work with a ratchet in the area. Removal of the filter resulted in a renewed flow to the oil drain, which had already been in process for 15 mins or so. New filter o-ring was pre-oiled and protected by tear-off plastic. Nice. Installed to a something less than 1 ugga dugga torque.

4. Filler cap. Not much to say here. Lots of room for most types of funnels to sit securely and quick fill rate without spillage. 7.7 quarts. Nice round number to work with. Not. Started the GX up and checked for leaks. Reinstall skid plate.

5. Dipstick. Not my favorite. One side seems to give an accurate read and the other shows splatter that looks like you might have overfilled by a few quarts. It is one of those sticks that seems to twist a bunch of times as it is inserted and removed.

Overall, the GX presents a fairly enjoyable and easy process for DIY oil changes!

Summary:

OEM Oil Filter 90915-YZZN3. Made in Thailand. There is also Japan filter with different part no.; couldn't source one. Update: Made in Japan Filter is part no. 90195-10010.
Drain plug washer is part no. 90430-12031
7.7 quarts 0W-20 full synthetic ILSAC GF-6A
Performance Tool filter wrench/cap (65mm, 14 flutes) part no. W54117
5/8 ID clear tube or 1/2 ID for more fiddly fit.
Skid plate bolts (6) are 10mm
Drain plug is 14mm

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In your #2 , I couldn’t agree more. I thought I was going insane. I was wondering if this washer was coming off or not. lol. Good call on the razor blade. I used small screw driver and tried to tap lightly, eventually popped off. Did you torque the oil drain bolt to 30ft-lbs? Seems excessive, I went with 20.
 
In your #2 , I couldn’t agree more. I thought I was going insane. I was wondering if this washer was coming off or not. lol. Good call on the razor blade. I used small screw driver and tried to tap lightly, eventually popped off. Did you torque the oil drain bolt to 30ft-lbs? Seems excessive, I went with 20.
I was beginning to believe the blue washer was a part of the pan even though I knew otherwise. Only the razor freed it after needle nose and screwdriver failed. I used my "judgment" on the drain bolt, didn't check torque.
 
Hate to open this Pandora's box, but what syn. aftermarket did you go with? You went with yota stuff? I normally go with Castrol Edge GTX Synth. Even on my high end cars..
Yes I did go with the stuff from the dealer because I didn't want to go down that rabbit hole (yet) for choosing something else, and their price was decent at the parts counter. I will take a look at Castrol GTX ahead of the next change that I do. I'm interested in opening that pandora's box!
 
Yes I did go with the stuff from the dealer because I didn't want to go down that rabbit hole (yet) for choosing something else, and their price was decent at the parts counter. I will take a look at Castrol GTX ahead of the next change that I do. I'm interested in opening that pandora's box!
Wise man... its a slippery slope hehe Um, yeah, if the price is decent i guess you are buying piece of mind.. me, i'm pretty anti dealer everything once I can get the ball in my court.
 
5. Dipstick. Not my favorite. One side seems to give an accurate read and the other shows splatter that looks like you might have overfilled by a few quarts. It is one of those sticks that seems to twist a bunch of times as it is inserted and removed.
This GX dipstick is, well, a royal dipstick. Twisty-turney and VERY difficult to read. While trying to get a good read on the oil level I kept thinking "maybe I put it back in the wrong way?" So I used a black Sharpie to put a dot on one side of the pull hoop, and I found that no matter how I inserted the dipstick, it ended up in the same position. I suppose the twists and turns in the shaft make it go in only one way.
 

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RE: dipsticks, in a different thread I noted how important it could be to grease the dipstick o-ring and tube. Condensation can get into the steel tube and rust it well enough where you won't be able to remove the dipstick..
 

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