Acumen M4 digital rearview mirror dashcam installation (1 Viewer)

Wah

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I installed an Acumen M4 2ch Front/Rear dash cam mirror and hardwired using fuse taps. My car came with a Lexus integrated dash cam, but it was just so ugly and honestly not great to use, so I took it off. Also, I was installing a CTH Molle system so I knew the already limited rear view would be obstructed more by the shelf, so combining a front dash cam with a rear view mirror cam was a good solution. I’m writing up the main parts of the install so I remember down the road what I did, but hopefully it helps someone. I chose the Acumen over the Wolfbox G00 pro for a clean OEM look despite the G900 pro having better camera sensors. I just really didn’t like the visible plugs and wires on the wolfbox, and my main concern was just getting a digital rear mirror.

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Install was pretty quick… took me less than 2 hours. The hardest part was getting the camera wire through the rubber conduit into the tailgate.
I purchased:
-Acumen M4 2 Ch kit
-M4 backplate
-#190 bracket
-Two low profile mini fuse taps (Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance)

1. Remove the dome light console, the Lexus camera housing, the A-pillar cover, the fuse box cover (under the glovebox) and the dash side panel (next to the glovebox). Plenty of YouTube videos on how to do this.

2. Remove the OEM rear mirror assembly and wire/connector.

3. Screw the backplate and bracket to the Acumen mirror and then mount the mirror assembly to the windshield. Just a note here, the screws for the bracket are a hair too long for some reason, so I put some thin foam padding between the bracket and the backplate to separate them a little when screwing them together. Run the connectors and wire harness up the middle behind the headliner and into the space above the dome light console. All the connectors (power, rear cam, GPS, unused 3rd ch cam) should be in the space above the dome light to be connected to the wires as they are run in.

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4. Starting with the GPS, mount the GPS module into the corner of the dash next to the speaker (double sided tape), push the wire behind the dash and then route it up along the A-pillar wire harness to the headliner, then inside the front edge of the headliner towards the dome light console. Snake the connector into the dome console area and plug it into the GPS connector.

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5. For the hardwire kit, you need to connect the 2 fuse taps to the ACC wire and the BATTERY wire of the hardwire harness (wires are labeled). I used solder seal connectors and a heat gun. Attach the black ground wire to one of the bolts on the side of the dash, then run the two fuse taps to the fuse panel. I used the DOME fuse for the constant power (BATTERY). Remove the 10a fuse for DOME and move it to the bottom slot of the fuse tap, place a new fuse in the top and place it in that slot (instructions say under 15a, I used a 7.5a). Fuse taps are directional, so wire should come out of the tap towards the middle of the car. For the ACC switched power fuse, there is an unused slot 3 slots down from the dome. Put a 7.5a fuse in the top slot of the tap and leave the bottom empty and put the tap into the unused slot. Zip tie the regulator module somewhere on the dash frame and run the power wire up the A-pillar along the harness with the GPS wire. Plug into the power connector. Zip tie both wires to the harness so they are tidy. These wires should be clear of and never cross over the airbag.

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(Don’t mind the crooked fuse, I corrected that)
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6. Rear camera: The rear camera wire needs to be run BEHIND the airbag in the A-pillar. Starting at the top of the door frame, pull off the weather stripping and push the camera connector behind the airbag towards the windshield, and run it up along the front headliner to the dome light space and connect it to the rear cam (#1) connector. Then going back to the door frame, start running the rest of the wire inside the headliner (detach weatherstripping) and in the gaps between the pillar trim and headliner to the back of the car. The hardest part of the install was getting the connector through the rubber conduit (that is already stuffed with the existing wiring harness) to the lift gate. Remove the plastic trim above the rear window, pop off both ends of the conduit and slowly push the connector through. Once it pops out the other end, pull it through and connect it to the camera. Replace the trim and mount the camera. There is a large excess of wire that can be zip tied together and stored in the D pillar. There is a cover for the 3rd row seatbelt (Overtrail trims) that can be popped off and the wire can be dropped in there.
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Start the car and check that everything is working properly before putting all covers and trim pieces back. There wasn't a lot of information out there showing which fuses to tap in the GX550 or LC250, so I thought this might be helpful . I'm not 100% sure if the empty fuse slot I'm using for ACC is completely switched because the startmycar.com diagram (2024 Lexus GX 550 fuse box diagram - StartMyCar) shows it as an ECU controlled fuse. If I find my camera is doing weird stuff when the car is off, I will try a different slot (rear wiper?) but so far its been recording in sentry when I'm parked without an issue. I'm loving this upgrade, although getting my eyes adjusted to using a digital rear cam has been an interesting experience LOL. Hope this helps.
 
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great writeup. Now considering this even though I never knew I wanted it. lol
Staying off the internet would save me a lot of money 😂

But seriously my rear view looks like this now so it’s a must.

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so the way you wired it allows for 24hr recording?
It is recording in time lapse (1, 2, 5sec interval settings) when the car is shut off for as long as the battery keeps its voltage up which would be about 20hrs. The regulator module turns it off completely if the battery voltage drops to 11.8V so it doesn't drain your battery. There are also settings to turn it off after a certain number of hours. I believe this is how most of these sentry dash cams work.
 
Pretty slick. I want a digital rear view so that I can just chuck stuff in the cargo area without trying to keep a tunnel in the middle clear so that I can see out the back through my rear view mirror. Do you know if it the mirror and cameras will still function properly if you don't install the GPS module? I don't want another GPS tracker and I could also really care less about front-facing camera.
 
Pretty slick. I want a digital rear view so that I can just chuck stuff in the cargo area without trying to keep a tunnel in the middle clear so that I can see out the back through my rear view mirror. Do you know if it the mirror and cameras will still function properly if you don't install the GPS module? I don't want another GPS tracker and I could also really care less about front-facing camera.
I'm sure it will work but even if it doesn't, just plug it in, wrap it in foam and hide in the headliner. It needs a clear view of the sky for it to track you. Or just ask Acumen haha.
 
Looks almost identical to my Wolfbox. I can confirm that for the price it's one of the better upgrades you can do. The picture is incredibly clear(2.5k rear) and it gives you a larger overall view of everything behind you. I installed one on the girl's vehicle as well and the recording feature actually came in incredibly handy in a hit and run she was involved in. The rear cam captured the initial hit and then the front cam captured the license plate as you could watch them take off.

You can run it without the GPS with no issue, you just lose the compass and speed functions.
 
For your wolfbox, Does it have all the wire connections at the top of the mirror? Also, I'm assuming the loss of homelink when the stock mirror goes away.
 
For your wolfbox, Does it have all the wire connections at the top of the mirror? Also, I'm assuming the loss of homelink when the stock mirror goes away.
Yeah Wolfbox does have the plug-ins on top. That's a nice touch on this one integrating them cleaner.

And yeah that was the one downside is homelink is gone removing the factory mirror. I didn't love the location on the mirror anyway though, I actually preferred my 5th gen 4Runner's integrated visor homelink better. I just use a basic visor clip on style opener now. I may eventually see about doing something more factory style integrated, but doesn't bother me for now.
 

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