Rear cargo AC outlet won't stay on, any solutions?

[Jxn]

Hi all,
I searched but couldn't find a solution to this inconsistent issue I am experiencing. Have bluetti ac180 generator providing the electricity to dometic 55L fridge. Want to charge the ac180 only when engine is on via rear AC cargo outlet. When it works, wattage pull from AC outlet is approx 100 watts. (Wattage pull is based from generator, it has screen displaying both input and output wattage in realtime.). Charging scenario is well within acceptance (<400 watt output). Fuse is not blown.

Lately, it just won't stay on or maintain ability to charge. Depress the 120V switch, light will indicate its on, then I hear the generator charging/fan on then shut down and associating underneath 120V dash light is off. I also tested my other bluetti generators (EB70S and AC200), all resulted in similar outcomes. All 3 of my generators are working/charging properly. Is there a priority criteria that I am missing; ie, does the battery have to be "X" capacity before diverting power to GX's inverter? Any ideas? TIA

 

[DanDanTMM]

Have you tried unplugging the power station and plugging in an outlet tester or some other item that is way under the wattage limit to see if it is the outlet that stopped working or the power station that stopped charging?

There are a couple of things that could be causing it.

This is from the GX manual:

Do not use a 120 VAC appliance that requires more than 400 W. If a 120 VAC appliance that consumes more than 400W is used, the protection circuit will cut the power supply.

The specs for the AC180 show it can pull up to 1440 watts when charging from an outlet. I know you said the unit is showing 100 watts input but are you sure it didn't try to pull more at first and tripped the AC outlet protection circuit? If that is kicking in then the test I mentioned first would tell you if this is the issue.

Are you using normal charging or turbo charging mode on the AC180. I see in the manual you have to enable turbo but that would definitely draw too many watts for the 120v outlet.

Have you tried using Grid Enhancement mode on the AC180? This is from the manual for the AC180.

When should I use the Grid Enhancement mode? This mode is handy when charging the AC180 via an unstable AC source, such as an unreliable grid or generator. E.g. If you change the generator's output while charging the AC180, the voltage dip will also cause the charge to fail.

If the voltage on the 120V outlet is dropping or not consistent (hopefully not) it might have caused the AC180 to stop charging.

 

[Jxn]

DanDan Thanks so much for diving into this more than I have..!

I had to re-read my initial post and one thing I did not mention is I am using the ac/dc converter (brick) that came with the EB70s. So to be specific, from GX AC outlet --> brick--> to either ac180 or eb70S's PV input. And going by vague memory it is rated to output 200 DC watts max.
That is one of two reasons am using the converter, to mitigate charging of any chances >400watts and it is an agonistic power source for both generators. The eb70s does not have internal built in converter but has PV input. I have not opted to use the ac180 direct AC to AC charging in the GX.
And honestly (thank you for pointing out various modes of the 180), I did not dive that deep into how I can AC charge it. I don't think I am on 'turbo' mode. I do not recall charging that high. I kept it simple and used whatever default settings was selected. However the eb70s, is not that sophisticated.

The only other thing I have charged (successfully and consistently) is a SLR camera battery charger plugged into the AC. Outlet seems ok..

But the initial surge you mentioned, maybe the culprit!
I tried to test this out late last night, took the ac180 inside and used the ac/dc converter. Plugged it into house outlet then the DC output into the pv input of ac180 and the display was on but there was a delay (10-15?) seconds to report out the wattage. So I presume the initial charge would have passed by then. Again, I just don't understand, it was working most of the time during summer but haven't been recently.. Is it the 'cooler' temp? The BMS on either generator should not have trigged thermal protection, it hasn't been lower than 50s when I attempted to charge.
I will be seeing the dealer (not related to this) this Friday and will inquire, if I hear a possible fix, I'll post it.
Jxn

 

[JPE]

Jxn, you could get something like this to tell you the peak power draw (watts). Just plug this into the GX's power outlet and then plug your bluetti charging brick into this.

Amazon.com

 

[Jxn]

JPE, thanks for the link. I had a fleeting thought of using something like that or the "kill a watt" meter to determine the initial surge; if that is the culprit.
Just ordered the meter you suggested, will be here on Monday.

So I was at the Lexus dealership today, had a rather lengthy conversation with one of their master technician and saw my first door ding!! Ugh!! The GX is less than a month old!! This happened during my time inside the dealership. Luckily, the dealership found the owner and I was able to obtain his insurance info. Such a snarky fellow, not only did he park diagonally but also close enough that I couldn't get in my driver's side w/o touching his driver's side. He was in absolute denial. But it was so obvious., truly I had to convince him to slowly open his driver's door and see what happens. His door edge perfectly(!) aligned to the indent on the body line. He didn't have any more to say after that.

Anyways, showed the master tech the set up/how everything is connected together to the ac outlet. What is interesting and what I didn't notice until we performed It repeatedly was when trans is in 'Park', then turn on the dash 120V, the power did not shut down, generator was being charged throughout the duration.

However, once we place the trans into 'Drive', the power will shut down. We tested this repeatedly and it consistently turns off, once it's in drive.

In addition, I was able to replicate my experiences with the tech. if I am in Drive and attempt to turn on the 120V outlet, it will initially start then turn off within a second or so.

He did not have a solid explanation as to why this is happening. He said he checked out his manuals and said it was rather vague of its operation. I am the first to present this problem to the dealership. He only had speculations of what's happening. He believes the 120V is ecm controlled (therefore cannot bypass relay). And I should not. Does not believe it's a surge problem (will still test it, just for curiosity sake).

 

[JPE]

Jxn, interesting behavior of the outlet with respect to being in Drive. That's good to know. From a usage standpoint it seems it should stay on while in drive, but I'm not a Lexus engineer so I don't know why that decision was made. Are you going to file a case with Lexus? Maybe it's something they can fix via a software update.

 

[willboy]

This is a helpful thread. I just installed an Airdown/Gearup drawer system with a Dometic CD30 drawer refrigerator. My power source is an Anker Solix 1,000. I’m looking for a way to consistently charge the battery while driving without running a cable from the rear to the front dash. Has anyone figured out a good way to get enough power to the rear? It’s annoying that Lexus chose to limit the rear outlet to 400w.

 

[Jxn]

I’m looking for a way to consistently charge the battery while driving without running a cable from the rear to the front dash

As of now, I not aware of a way to bypass the default shutoff of the outlet while in drive. I have a feeling if we need power we will need to install something like Vitron Orion smart dc-dc charger, or one from eco flow or the new bluetti charger 1. For chargers that will pull ~500+ watts, I would err on the safe side and future proof it by running 8-12g wire from battery, inline fuse it w/in 12 inches of battery, and then to the rear via driver's side doorsills. I do not believe the oem wire is anything thicker than 18g.

Yea, unfortunately I think we will need to run new power wires. Plastic trim pieces in colder temps and I do not get along, so maybe a spring or summer project.

oh, I am pulling 100-20x watts in my set up [ac outlet --> my converter (brick) and then to either generators] while idling in park. It doesn't exhibit any initial surge that I am aware of.

 

[nonamex]

I guess my plan of charging the Jackery via the 400 watt outlet goes by the wayside. The Jackery will now have to sit in the back seat alongside the Dometic fridge while being charged via the cigarette adapter. Not ideal but it is what it is.

 

[4130]

I guess my plan of charging the Jackery via the 400 watt outlet goes by the wayside. The Jackery will now have to sit in the back seat alongside the Dometic fridge while being charged via the cigarette adapter. Not ideal but it is what it is.

This powering off while in drive is what I've been going through and I've landed at the same spot: use the 12V with a long cable to charge my Bluetti EB3A with Bouge RV fridge on it. I would certainly prefer using AC in the trunk and the UPS mode of the EB3A.

 

[nonamex]

I've have gone to solar charging from the roof of my tent so my charging needs are good now. Contemplating getting an Ecoflow Delta 2 Max with Alternator Charger for those cloudy/rainy days.

 

[ksj]

I'm using a Goal Zero Yeti 1000X with a Dometic 55l fridge. Just used it on a 3000 mile trip and my only issue was that the AC button needs to be pushed every time you start the engine. According to the 1000x it was getting a charge of about 116w.

Oddly, the Dometic fridge would not work on the GXs AC outlet, so my wiring was Dometic<-12VDC<-1000x<-GX AC.

 

[RickBullotta]

This is a helpful thread. I just installed an Airdown/Gearup drawer system with a Dometic CD30 drawer refrigerator. My power source is an Anker Solix 1,000. I’m looking for a way to consistently charge the battery while driving without running a cable from the rear to the front dash. Has anyone figured out a good way to get enough power to the rear? It’s annoying that Lexus chose to limit the rear outlet to 400w.

Because 400 watts at 12V is a 30 amp circuit, which is typically on the high end for automotive circuits.

 

[BENDOU]

JPE, thanks for the link. I had a fleeting thought of using something like that or the "kill a watt" meter to determine the initial surge; if that is the culprit.
Just ordered the meter you suggested, will be here on Monday.

So I was at the Lexus dealership today, had a rather lengthy conversation with one of their master technician and saw my first door ding!! Ugh!! The GX is less than a month old!! This happened during my time inside the dealership. Luckily, the dealership found the owner and I was able to obtain his insurance info. Such a snarky fellow, not only did he park diagonally but also close enough that I couldn't get in my driver's side w/o touching his driver's side. He was in absolute denial. But it was so obvious., truly I had to convince him to slowly open his driver's door and see what happens. His door edge perfectly(!) aligned to the indent on the body line. He didn't have any more to say after that.

Anyways, showed the master tech the set up/how everything is connected together to the ac outlet. What is interesting and what I didn't notice until we performed It repeatedly was when trans is in 'Park', then turn on the dash 120V, the power did not shut down, generator was being charged throughout the duration.

However, once we place the trans into 'Drive', the power will shut down. We tested this repeatedly and it consistently turns off, once it's in drive.

In addition, I was able to replicate my experiences with the tech. if I am in Drive and attempt to turn on the 120V outlet, it will initially start then turn off within a second or so.

He did not have a solid explanation as to why this is happening. He said he checked out his manuals and said it was rather vague of its operation. I am the first to present this problem to the dealership. He only had speculations of what's happening. He believes the 120V is ecm controlled (therefore cannot bypass relay). And I should not. Does not believe it's a surge problem (will still test it, just for curiosity sake).

WRT your observation that the outlet would charge (at 400 watts) when in Park but then quit when in Drive. I recall on my 5th Gen 4Runner that the 400 watt output was only available when in Park and then it would drop to 100 watts when you shifted out of Park. This was described in the manual as I recall and was certainly how it worked in the 4Runner. So I figure the same thing is happening with the GX550. Why it would operate this way is unknown to me but obviously there is some reason.

 

[Toxicdog]

WRT your observation that the outlet would charge (at 400 watts) when in Park but then quit when in Drive. I recall on my 5th Gen 4Runner that the 400 watt output was only available when in Park and then it would drop to 100 watts when you shifted out of Park. This was described in the manual as I recall and was certainly how it worked in the 4Runner. So I figure the same thing is happening with the GX550. Why it would operate this way is unknown to me but obviously there is some reason.

I would imagine the total draw with the electronic steering rack would be too much for the alternator/battery.