DIY Oil Change Observations (1 Viewer)

[MK550]

Good tips Gx470-550OT+

Did you use the OE toyota oil for the first change?

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[Land Bully]

The 90915-10010 have been superseded the 90915-YZZN3. According to Lexus, the 90915-10010 is obsolete and they won't be making them anymore.
We were curious to see if anything is different besides the country of origin, so we cut them open. Every part seems to be identical except for the filter element, itself.

• The revised version (90915-YZZN3) is almost 50% thicker than the obsolete (90915-10010).
• The revised version is more dense. Even though it was 34% shorter in overall length (58 vs 78 inches), it weighed more (23.1 vs 22.1 grams). Although subjective, there was more resistance when blowing air through it.
• The obsolete version has many more pleats though.

- 124 vs 96 or 62 vs 48 depending on how you count them. Either way, it's 30% more pleats with the Japanese variant. More pleats = more surface area. More surface area usually means more filtering capacity before the filter becomes saturated.

Overall, Toyota/Lexus spends millions on R&D, so I’m sure they have their reasons for going through the trouble of revising it. They're the ones that have to deal with recalls/warranty claims.

Cheers,
-Tony

edit:
I wanted to give props to the OP ColoradoOutdoors for a stellar write up and apologies for the digression.

 

[Bwaa]

Interesting write up, Curious to those with previous Lexus experience.

 

[Mike'sGX]

The 90915-10010 have been superseded the 90915-YZZN3. According to Lexus, the 90915-10010 is obsolete and they won't be making them anymore.
We were curious to see if anything is different besides the country of origin, so we cut them open. Every part seems to be identical except for the filter element, itself.

• The revised version (90915-YZZN3) is almost 50% thicker than the obsolete (90915-10010).
• The revised version is more dense. Even though it was 34% shorter in overall length (58 vs 78 inches), it weighed more (23.1 vs 22.1 grams). Although subjective, there was more resistance when blowing air through it.
• The obsolete version has many more pleats though.

- 124 vs 96 or 62 vs 48 depending on how you count them. Either way, it's 30% more pleats with the Japanese variant. More pleats = more surface area. More surface area usually means more filtering capacity before the filter becomes saturated.

Overall, Toyota/Lexus spends millions on R&D, so I’m sure they have their reasons for going through the trouble of revising it. They're the ones that have to deal with recalls/warranty claims.

Cheers,
-Tony

edit:
I wanted to give props to the OP ColoradoOutdoors for a stellar write up and apologies for the digression.

Thanks for the great evaluation of the filters but I'm a little confused on the 3 filters shown.
If the YZZN3 is the substitute for the 10010 filter, where does the YZZN1 fit into this evaluation.
Was the YZZN1 or 3 used in the filter media measurements?

 

[Land Bully]

Thanks for the great evaluation of the filters but I'm a little confused on the 3 filters shown.
If the YZZN3 is the substitute for the 10010 filter, where does the YZZN1 fit into this evaluation.
Was the YZZN1 or 3 used in the filter media measurements?

Great question, Mike. The YZZN1 was not measured, since we ruled it out for being much smaller. Our local dealership sold it to us as an OEM replacement. We use it as a warning for others to be cognizant of better/safer options.

 

[robo32502]

I decided to do an initial oil change at 1,400 miles using an OEM filter (90915-YZZN3) and oil (Lexus 0W-20). While the benefits of an early initial oil change are debatable, I went ahead for my peace of mind and curiousity as to how easy it would be when I tackle this regularly post-warranty. Here are my casual observations:

1. Skid Plate removal: While a bit tedious to remove the plate, 3 of the 6 holes in the plate (10mm bolts with washers) are tabbed to clear the washer so you don't fully remove those bolts and can slide the plate to remove. Reinstallation is a one person job as you can slide the plate back into place hanging by the bolt/washers and tighten. Nice quality bolts and plate! I took some time to look at the under regions of the GX here. Fun to check out new, non-rusted components. No leaks!

2. Oil pan plug removal and drain: High quality 14mm flanged drain bolt. I expected to experience an ugga dugga torque spec but amazingly the bolt backed off readily. Suggesting some level of care from the factory. The blue replacable washer behind the bolt was stubborn. Don't forget to remove it. Double-stacking washers is no good (dealer included a new washer with the filter, if ordering online, not sure if included with filter. Washer part no. 90430-12031). Required a flat razor blade wedged between pan and washer and a solid hit to break it free. Not entirely satisfying. Oil drains in solid stream and not a multi angle spray like some cars I've dealt with. Nice.

3. Filter removal and drain. This is the epic part of the oil change. The built-in catch pan with hose-ready drain below the filter is a marvel. Not a drip lost to a frame rail or my arm. Thanks Lexus! I used a 5/8 ID tube and ran it to an oil disposal jug. Not a tight fit, so don't go yanking on that tube or perhaps try something slightly smaller diameter if you prefer. I enlisted a Performance Tool filter wrench (65mm, 14 flutes) part no. W54117 as the original filter was set to 1 ugga dugga. Pic below of filter removal business. Lots of room to work with a ratchet in the area. Removal of the filter resulted in a renewed flow to the oil drain, which had already been in process for 15 mins or so. New filter o-ring was pre-oiled and protected by tear-off plastic. Nice. Installed to a something less than 1 ugga dugga torque.

4. Filler cap. Not much to say here. Lots of room for most types of funnels to sit securely and quick fill rate without spillage. 7.7 quarts. Nice round number to work with. Not. Started the GX up and checked for leaks. Reinstall skid plate.

5. Dipstick. Not my favorite. One side seems to give an accurate read and the other shows splatter that looks like you might have overfilled by a few quarts. It is one of those sticks that seems to twist a bunch of times as it is inserted and removed.

Overall, the GX presents a fairly enjoyable and easy process for DIY oil changes!

Summary:

OEM Oil Filter 90915-YZZN3. Made in Thailand. There is also Japan filter with different part no.; couldn't source one. Update: Made in Japan Filter is part no. 90195-10010.
Drain plug washer is part no. 90430-12031
7.7 quarts 0W-20 full synthetic ILSAC GF-6A
Performance Tool filter wrench/cap (65mm, 14 flutes) part no. W54117
5/8 ID clear tube or 1/2 ID for more fiddly fit.
Skid plate bolts (6) are 10mm
Drain plug is 14mm

View attachment 12138

View attachment 12139

Did you remove the plastic shroud only, or the metal skid plate also? Mine has 12mm bolts on the metal plate.

 

[ColoradoOutdoors]

Did you remove the plastic shroud only, or the metal skid plate also? Mine has 12mm bolts on the metal plate.

I removed the aluminum skid plate. This was on a OT+.

 

[Yrag57]

I have not and would not be willing to give it a go. Maybe overthinking it, but I would not want to have any factor out there that might create a fight in the event of a warranty claim related to engine/oiling (use of non-spec oil filter).

I’m with you, Colorado. I’ve driven Toyota trucks and 4Runners non-stop since 1987 (although this is my first Lexus). A couple of times over that period I trusted mechanics who said their oil filters were spec’s for Toyota motors. First cold start I heard clattering. Their filters let all the oil go into the pan. Bonafide Toyota filters have a check valve (or something) which keeps enough lubricant high enough to get through those first critical seconds at startup when most engine wear occurs.
Since then, if I change my own oil, I use OEM filters. Castrol, Mobile, or other brands are adequate substitutes for the oil itself (as long as they are of the proper spec), but not for the filter.
PS I found the same thing true regarding brake pads. I’ve never found an aftermarket brake pad that didn’t squeak. I’m no big fan of dealerships, but I go there for brake pads and oil filters. Every time.

 

[Bret_T]

I thought I was going insane. I was wondering if this washer was coming off or not. lol. Good call on the razor blade. I used small screw driver and tried to tap lightly, eventually popped off. Did you torque the oil drain bolt to 30ft-lbs? Seems excessive, I went with 20.

I was beginning to believe the blue washer was a part of the pan even though I knew otherwise. Only the razor freed it after needle nose and screwdriver failed.

I also encountered this issue with the oil pan drain bolt washer. I also was beginning to think that it was part of the oil pan, but then I compared the thickness to that of the replacement washer that came with my oil filter. They were the same, so I knew it was just stuck. I tried pounding a dead blow hammer on the end of a flat head screwdriver, but that didn't do the trick. Next, I put the screwdriver just inside the hole and twist. It fell right off like it was barely attached. They must have used glue when installing it at the factory. I torqued the bolt to 30ft-lbs, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't that tight to begin with.

When I went to remove the oil filter, I first installed the tubing. Regardless, some of the oil went behind the piece that's supposed to direct it. Next time I'll put a paper towel up there to catch this runoff. The instructions on the oil filter said to go until it makes contact and then turn it another 3/4 turn. I turned it until it made contact but could only get it go about 3/8 of a turn more. There was no way that it was going to go 3/4 of the way around unless I used a wrench. That seemed excessive, so I just left it where I could get it by hand.

 

[GT3Tim]

Thanks for the great info. I plan to do my first oil change at 1,000 miles (rig has about 650 on it currently) so this is super helpful!