DIY Oil Change Observations (1 Viewer)

So far, I've purchased at both a Toyota and a Lexus dealership parts counter: Post #5, My Local Lexus Dealers Doesn't Have a Customer Parts/Accessories Counter!.

Surprisingly, a Lexus dealership had better prices (by far) then a close by Toyota dealership.
I sourced Lexus branded oil primarily because I happened to be at the dealer and price was same as Advance Auto or O'Reilly. Many Lexus dealers will run Black Friday or other holiday deals on parts, and oil is often part of that promo. I grab a couple cases when I see it on sale.
 
I sourced Lexus branded oil primarily because I happened to be at the dealer and price was same as Advance Auto or O'Reilly. Many Lexus dealers will run Black Friday or other holiday deals on parts, and oil is often part of that promo. I grab a couple cases when I see it on sale.
I wasn't aware there is a Lexus branded oil. I bought Toyota oil.
 
I wasn't aware there is a Lexus branded oil. I bought Toyota oil.
is this one?
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What the part number for 0W-20 Genuine Engine Oil?
Toyota & Lexus only make one 0w20 oil, to my knowledge - it's all the same. The only differences in part number are different quantities (quart bottle vs. case vs. drum).

Buy genuine oil from wherever is cheapest. Whether it says Toyota on the bottle or Lexus - it's all the same stuff.
 
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Keep in mind - there's nothing super special about Genuine Toyota / Lexus 0w20. Here in the US at least, we have an abundance of cheap, high quality synthetic* 0w20 oils available anywhere.

It's a perfectly good (maybe even great) oil, but so are Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc.

* Synthetic is a slightly weird term, because most of our synthetic oils are still technically refined from crude, but with a special process that many experts say produce base oils that rival or sometimes outperform traditional synthetic Group IV and V oils. I say with a 5k mile oil change and normal driving, don't bother with the ultra high end "true synthetic" stuff from Amsoil / Redline / Royal Purple etc.
 
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7.7 quarts of oil when you also change the filter. In reality, I find 7.7 quarts is ever so slightly overfilled - should probably fill with 7.5 quarts next time.
 
7.7 quarts of oil when you also change the filter. In reality, I find 7.7 quarts is ever so slightly overfilled - should probably fill with 7.5 quarts next time.
I kind of got the same impression after having done two oil changes so far.

I want so far as to take out 9.6 fl. oz. (0.3 x 32 = 9.6) from the 8th oil bottle, to get 0.7 quarts remaining in the bottle.

Upon checking the dipstick after driving a few miles, then waiting five minutes after stopping the engine (per instructions in AutoRepair Source manuals) the oil level was above the upper fill mark. I observed this both times.

As reported elsewhere on here new, clean oil is extremely hard to see on the dipstick, even in direct sunlight or with a flashlight assist.
 
Yeah, I'd estimate I'm about a half quart overfilled if I pour 7.7 quarts, but I'm not nearly as precisely measured as you. Either way, it's not nearly enough oil to cause a problem.
 
7.7 quarts of oil when you also change the filter. In reality, I find 7.7 quarts is ever so slightly overfilled - should probably fill with 7.5 quarts next time.
Seems like all vehicles are well above the line when filled with the specified capacity. The response to this on a couple jeep forums I belong to, is that the residual oil in the engine accounts for this.
 
7.5 quarts vs. 7.7. Probably a good addendum to my original post. I added 7.5 quarts and checked the level before adding a touch more. Maybe something just short of 7.7 for me and I allowed a really long drain interval during that change, 20 min or so perhaps (initial pan drain, then filter drain and some renewed flow at the pan).
 
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