Happy Father's Day to all the fathers out there!
Yesterday I crawled back under Junior to install the Dr. KDSS track bar (aka panhard bar) and track bar correction kit.
Dr. KDSS Track bar:
Dr. KDSS Track Bar
Dr. KDSS Bolt On Trackbar Correction Kit (BOTCK):
B.O.T.C.K - Bolt On TrackBar Correction kit Land Cruiser 250, GX550 and 6th Gen4runner
This is some really nice hardware, very well made.
In the following photo you can see my stock track bar sitting at a pretty good angle. The axle mount on the right hand side measured 16.25 inches from the ground and the frame mount on the left measured 21.25 inches, for a difference of 5 inches. I put a red line from bolt center to bolt center and you can see the high angle of the track bar - it should be as close to level as possible.
If you are only installing the correction kit, you have to loosen the frame side bolt to let the stock track bar relax. I'm replacing the bar so I removed the bolt entirely. There is a free (not captive) nut on the back side.
Here is the stock track bar removed and compared to the Dr. KDSS track bar - it arrived from the good doctor nearly perfectly sized - maybe 1 mm longer eye to eye.
Here are the BOTCK parts - I grabbed this screen shot from Dr. KDSS' install video as I forgot to get a good pic of the parts. Here is also a link to his install video.
Install Video
The red rectangle on the left is simply a threaded plate for the bottom bolt to anchor into to secure the bottom of the "Main Front Bracket." The red "Back Bracket" in the foreground is a really ingenious part that makes this whole kit work - the long cylinder takes the place of the stock track bar eye location and you re-install the stock track bar anchor bolt through this whole (the backside on the stock truck's bracket has a captive nut). Kind of hard to explain but it makes sense as it all comes together. Then the Main Front Bracket sandwiches the stock mount on 3 sides and the upper bolt hole is the new hole that you bolt the old or new track bar into, thus lifting the trackbar mounting location but keeping the whole structure rigid and strong.
In the photo below, I've slid the rectangle anchor plate in the proper slot (white arrow) and the Back Bracket (red arrow) is loosely set in place. I already loosely installed the Dr. KDSS track bar on the frame mount on the driver's side and I held it up out of the way with a bungee cord. I figured it would be easier to anchor the track bar in the frame mount and then the kit would have a little play in it so I could jiggle it all into alignment on the axle mount side. This proved to be the way to go as it was a bit difficult to line up the eye of the track bar to the rear hole on the Back Bracket. I ended up doing it out of order and getting the new track bar mounting bolt all the way through the new track bar, then jiggling the whole setup as I got the stock bolt into the stock hole location, then got the bottom and side bolts lined up. I then went from bolt to bolt, turning them each about a half dozen turns at a time until they were somewhat tight.
Then it's time to torque everything down. The directions call for 105 lb-ft on the stock bolts (frame mount bolt and original axle mount bolt) and 120-125 lb-ft on the grade 8 Dr. KDSS bolts. Of course I got into an arm wrestling competition (both arms) with a buddy Friday afternoon after a few beers at our local watering hole and my arms and shoulders were already killing me before I started this job Saturday morning. It was all I could do to brace my feet on various parts of the truck and pull/push 105 & 121 lb-ft on these damn bolts. Now I can barely type this here on Sunday. Good times.
The finished product - note the angle of the new track bar.
I then half-heartedly started to work on installing my new Icon rear upper & lower links. I can see all 8 nuts & bolts (1 each end of the 2 upper & 2 lower links) but it's a bit tight, especially the upper links. Then I realized that I couldn't get my impact gun on most of the bolts, just not enough room, and I can't really get a breaker bar in there either, not to mention a torque wrench to get the bolts back to 90-100+ lb-ft. The truck really need to be up on a lift. Besides, it was already over 100 degrees in my garage and my arms were killing me. I'll leave the rear link install to a shop.