🛠️ Member Build Overtrail Upgrades (1 Viewer)

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The alternative is raising the GX higher so that you can get the proper angle to remove the small bit of piping in front of the axle. This will help on reinstalling the dump pipe as well.

If you are limited on how much you can raise it, dropping the spare is less of a headache.
I used ramps for the back end - so I was already up 3" off the garage floor. Dropping the tire down opens up a great deal of room to maneuver.
 
Good looking build! :cool:

I really like the look of that full length roof rack. When we saw a few GX's at the dealer last week, they had the PIO racks behind the moonroof. Wife said she liked the look, but I told her those make too much noise and it'll drive us nuts on road trips (I've had a bunch of racks over the years on trucks, and she's forgotten how bad they howl on the highway). BUT, if that Westcott is fairly quiet, that may be the way to go. We're still waiting, (and may be for a while) because we want an Overtrail + WITHOUT moonroof, cool box, & a couple of the "nanny" options.
Good idea to delete the cool box - takes up storage space in the front, which is already limited.
 
Installed the Beatsonic amp for my base Overtrail stereo (not the ML stereo).

Beat-Sonic Encore Sigma Plug and Play Amplifier Kit for Lexus GX550

It was a royal pain in the ass. Not because of Beatsonic and their stellar product, but because of the tight spaces, sharp corners & pieces everywhere, stubborn clips, etc. This reminds me why I hate car stereo work. In fact, the last time I personally installed car stereo equipment was in 1988 when someone smashed the driver's window and stole the stock Clarion head unit out of my Suzuki Samurai. I installed a $32 Sparkomatic AM/FM/cassette deck head unit from Kmart along with 2 detachable speakers from my boom box. The stock front speakers were re-used (not stolen) and I added the 2 rear boom box speakers for that full, rich, auditorium Sparkomatic sound that we all crave. The rear speakers were secured with duct tape. My apologies, I digress.

The Beatsonic product was very well packaged and clearly professionally made. Much higher quality than I expected. Directions were easily found online, although the directions make it look like a walk in the park and reality was a bit less enjoyable.

First step, undo all seat bolts and tilt that seat way back. Pull the door sill trim and pull up the carpet. Get rid of the evil sharp staples that get yanked out of the carpet or they will cut you. I just clipped them back with a wire cutter.
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My fat fingers couldn't press the black locking mechanism button to release the stock Lexus plug that is plugged into the stock amplifier so I used a tent stake to reach in and press the button and then I jammed my hand in and was able to yank back the clip. Then it took an act of God to back the actual plug out of the amp - there are other wires & clips in the way that prevent the main clip from backing out. I just pushed the other clips forward to make some room.
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The instruction video show a nice bit of generous wiring lead on this clip so you can pull it out and have some room and a pleasant experience plugging in the Beatsonic main secured clip, but they must have been short on wiring when they built my truck because I had no room to pull out the clip, I had only a fraction of an inch of room to move the clip around. Then I could not, for the life of me, get the black security clip to snap home. It eventually happened but I left some scraps of flesh and blood under there.
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To insert the Beatsonic plug back into the stock Lexus amp, I got smart and jammed a full beer can and a seat belt extender under there to make some room. The step immediately after was the best step in the whole process because it involved popping open the beer can.
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The rest of the job was easy. Route all the wires through the second carpet opening per the instructions, I set all the Beatsonic gains at 1 tick from all the way up, plug in the Beat Box, bring the protective sheath all the way up, secure it with a small zip-tie, shove the Beat Box back onto the rear floor, move to the rear door. I also used small zip ties to secure the loose wires where the sheath didn't cover to keep them manageable. You have stuff and coil a lot of wiring under the carpet between the stock amp and the second carpet opening.
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Then I tilted the seat forward, removed the headrest, and used the seat back tilt feature to stuff the top of the seat back up into the headliner by the sun visor. This held the seat in a forward-tilt position. Then I sat in the back seat and the mounting the Beat Box was pretty simple. First I removed the elastic holding down the mouse fur carpet covering the bottom of the front seat, fold the carpet up and tuck it into the seat back pocket. I got extremely frustrated trying to blindly unsecure the elastic before I decided to tilt the seat forward so I could see what I was doing.
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Then I used some heavy duty XL zip-ties I had on my workbench to secure the Beat Box up & under the seat.
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Then fold the mouse fur carpet back down but I've covered the original securing clips so I just pulled the elastic strap down and around the seat springs to hold it in place.
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When I started my truck after finishing the install, I wondered what kind of drunken savage had left the volume absolutely blasting. The volume was set at #25 and it was soooo much louder than before. I turned it down to about 12. Previously, having the volume at 12 meant you could barely hear it. Not only is it louder, it is so much clearer and so full of body, like Pamela Anderson in the early 90s.

I haven't driven the truck yet with the Beat Box rockin', but I will tomorrow. Looking forward to it. Now all I need is a tape deck add-on and I'll be cool again.
That was QUITE the install; how many beers did it take to finish it?
 
Good idea to delete the cool box - takes up storage space in the front, which is already limited.
The roof rack is actually pretty quite compared to the 4runner which didn't have all the sound proofing. I'll probably gut the cool box too. cool idea (no pun) but wont' really use that much. I already added the little shelf to it.

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Howdy Bluegill, Can I get some details on the light you mounted to your Westcott rack? Which light is it and what mounting equipment was used to get it attached? Thanks in advance.
 
Howdy Bluegill, Can I get some details on the light you mounted to your Westcott rack? Which light is it and what mounting equipment was used to get it attached? Thanks in advance.
Hi-Di-Ho, Neighbor!

No tengo luces en mi portaequipajes de techo.

I don't have lights on my roof rack.

Only awning mounts, shovel mounts, Maxtrax mounts, and grab handles.
 
My bad, I saw GrantM’s post on your build thread and thought it was yours. All good, I am going to try and save for a front bumper and will mount my Lightforce lights on it. I am thinking the Expedition One front bumper, pricey but what I am looking for. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks as always for your help and guidance, as much as I ranted on the Westcott rack I actually am pretty fond of it now that I got my scene lights to work. Thanks for the recommendation.
 
Update from Blue's Garage:

Sliders were almost easy. If it weren't for a couple bolts on each side that are incredibly difficult to get to (and to get a wrench on), this would have been a breeze.

Having a big side step is so much nicer, the kids and wife love it. And they are perfect for standing on and accessing the roof rack with the doors open or closed. Previously I was trying to balance on the door sill and/or the rear tire to get to the roof rack and I had to hold myself up there with one hand work with the other hand. Now it's like having scaffolding to stand on. Very much worth the entry price.

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Where did you get your side steps and did you paint your hood or is it a decal? If it’s a decal, where can I purchase ? Thanks!
 

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