I moved away from Blackstone to Oil Analyzers. They have better equipment and certain tests are more representative. Also ISO approved.
Low mileage oil change intervals (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mulberry083
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Everything is light years ahead. Turbos spin faster, engines are producing a lot of hp/c.i. these days and people hardly think anything of it. For a 350 cu. in. V8 to put out the same hp for its size as this GX engine, it would have to put out almost 600 hp. How often would you change the oil in such a beast?
Perhaps you can post a UOA report from Oil analyzers...
Given the recalls due to metal shavings and guidance from The Car Care Nut (on YouTube) I’m going to do an oil change after my current Thanksgiving holiday road trip (about 1,400 mi round trip) and every 5k miles or 6 months (whichever comes first) because I plan on keeping my ‘25 GX 550 for 10 years.
Even if there were no manufacturing issues or no turbos or if I had no long term ownership plans?
I’d still do 5k miles or 6 months.
Even if there were no manufacturing issues or no turbos or if I had no long term ownership plans?
I’d still do 5k miles or 6 months.
I'm in the same boat with the "more frequently than every 10K" group.
I did my initial oil change at 1K. I planned on doing another at 2K, but got stuff going on...so it will be closer to 2.5K. I will do another at 5K, then let the dealer do the freebie at 10K. After that, every 5K. I will also switch to 5-30w during the Summer as it gets into the 100's.
I did my initial oil change at 1K. I planned on doing another at 2K, but got stuff going on...so it will be closer to 2.5K. I will do another at 5K, then let the dealer do the freebie at 10K. After that, every 5K. I will also switch to 5-30w during the Summer as it gets into the 100's.
Unless you're towing or heavily into boost for minutes at a time or only driving your car <5 miles at a time, 0w20 should do you just fine - especially if you're doing 5k or less oil change intervals.
Lake Speed Jr. showed that changing your oil formulation (different brand / different model of oil) or mixing oils actually increases wear slightly because the different oil additives can attack each other and lessen the intended protection. You've got to do two back-to-back oil changes to flush all the old oil out to avoid it.
In one of his videos do does the very first oil change on his daughter's new ride, a Camry. Once the oil is drained, and with the old filter still in, he adds in one quart of new clean oil (a sacrificial quart) to flush-out break-in debris. I haven't seen the two back-to-back change video, but it must be something similar.
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Great advice that isn't mentioned enough IMO.
I've done this with all my vehicles. Use the same oil manufacturer and weight.
Had to pull an intake after 90K miles on one of mine years ago and it had no burnt deposits or sludge. Almost looked new.
I've opened engines that people took in for oil changes wherever they could get it done and those engines were sludge factories.
This is another reason I do my own oil changes.
Also know that not every Lexus dealer will use genuine Lexus 0w20 - in fact it's probably significantly less than 50% of dealers that use genuine Lexus oil. Dealers often buy the cheapest bulk oil that meets specs (and sometimes oil that doesn't even meet specs) because who's gonna know the difference?
Oil changes are some of the lowest margin work and are often used as loss leaders to get you in the door to pitch other unrelated, higher-margin maintenance. You might be surprised to find that if you demand your Lexus dealer to use genuine Lexus 0w20, they'll raise the price by $40-50.
Oil changes are some of the lowest margin work and are often used as loss leaders to get you in the door to pitch other unrelated, higher-margin maintenance. You might be surprised to find that if you demand your Lexus dealer to use genuine Lexus 0w20, they'll raise the price by $40-50.
I think he showed that the extra wear wasn't catastrophic, but it is measurable.
I'm not convinced flushing some of the oil in the pan really makes that big of a difference for oil mixing, because there's so much oil trapped in passages around the engine, but I'll definitely do my best to stick to one formulation of oil whenever I can. I also make sure to drive my car and warm up the oil immediately before doing an oil change, which I hope disperses most of the particles throughout the oil so it comes out when I drain it rather than settling in the bottom of the pan.
He does do back-to-back oil changes when comparing oils against each other, because it makes sure there's only one variable changing at a time.
Here is one done for factory fill: First Oil Change
Oil Analyzers provides more accurate fuel dilution measurements vs Blackstone, at least from what I last read. (https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/blackstone-and-fuel-dilution.357356)
Seems odd that there does not appear to be any indication on the report of the number of miles on that oil. As to the results shown, I would be concerned about that Silicon contaminate level. Odd.
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