DIY Oil Change Walk-thru Video (1 Viewer)

[RetiredSteelWorker]

Hey all! I put together a quick DIY video on how to change the oil in the Lexus GX 550.

The shops nearby me wanted nearly $200 for the job but was able to do this under 30 mins for about $40.

Check it out, hopefully it can save you some money too!

Help!

I did an 500 mile oil change today. I have one part-piece that caused, and is still causing, an extreme level of frustration.

The plastic "pop out" fastener connecting the front air dam and the skid plate, I still have not gotten it out. I had remove both the aid dam and skid plats with that plastic fastener still connected.

Attached pictures show some of this.

I tried four different tools to try to pop it out. Two flat-hear screwdrivers and two pry tools. I backed off when using the plastic pry tool, because it – the tool -- was about to snap (break). I destroyed about half of the flange-head of the fastener (see pic) using the metal pry tool.

I haven’t reattached the two plates, yet. The pics show them on my garage floor.

I want to remove the fastener before reattaching both plates to the vehicle, but I can’t think of a way to remove the fastener without destroying it. Any ideas on this would be really, really helpful right about now.

It’s possible I am missing something in how this fastener should pop out. I looked closely at the video, at 03:42 you mention pop out with a flat head. Other write ups on here, and on club lexus, all say the same, it pops right out. I suspect I am the unfortunate 1 out of thousands that runs into a problem with this simple part.

My tentative backup plan is maybe use a Dremel tool to drill out the fastener body, or just cut the plastic if I can do so without scratching the paint on the metal skid plate (future rust). Then remount the two pieces without the fastener in place, and separately get a replacement fastener and pop it in place.

 

[SkyHigh]

It looks like you're prying the outside flange that is black.

Pry the inner grey piece first. It should pull out about a half inch, then the black piece will be able to be removed.

 

[cmfhsu]

Yes - the grey inner piece is what locks the pin - it spreads out the black locking fingers that you show in your last photo. The grey inner piece should come out easily - you might even be able to do it with your fingernails. Afterwards, the remainder of the black circular pin should come out easily.

You should be able to get a replacement clip for pretty cheap at your local Toyota or lexus dealer - part number 90467-09227 I believe.

 

[RetiredSteelWorker]

It looks like you're prying the outside flange that is black.

Pry the inner grey piece first. It should pull out about a half inch, then the black piece will be able to be removed.

I totally missed that. I feel like completely dumb. Thanks.

Yes - the grey inner piece is what locks the pin - it spreads out the black locking fingers that you show in your last photo. The grey inner piece should come out easily - you might even be able to do it with your fingernails. Afterwards, the remainder of the black circular pin should come out easily.

You should be able to get a replacement clip for pretty cheap at your local Toyota or lexus dealer - part number 90467-09227 I believe.

And thanks for the part no.

 

[SkyHigh]

I totally missed that. I feel like completely dumb. Thanks.

Hopefully you helped the next guy that reads this thread.

Cheers.

 

[RetiredSteelWorker]

Hopefully you helped the next guy that reads this thread.

Cheers.

I'm used to huge slabs of metal and 20-ton coils of rolled steel. A $3 plastic fastener with a pop to release center tab is ... a challenge.

 

[SkyHigh]

I'm used to huge slabs of metal and 20-ton coils of rolled steel. A $3 plastic fastener with a pop to release center tab is ... a challenge.

Some of these plastic tabs can be a huge PITA.

I was surprised how easy this one came out when I did my first oil change.

Did you get it put back together on your GX?

 

[RetiredSteelWorker]

Yes - the grey inner piece is what locks the pin - it spreads out the black locking fingers that you show in your last photo. The grey inner piece should come out easily - you might even be able to do it with your fingernails. Afterwards, the remainder of the black circular pin should come out easily.

You should be able to get a replacement clip for pretty cheap at your local Toyota or lexus dealer - part number 90467-09227 I believe.

Confirmed that is the part number. I picked up one today from a Toyota parts counter.

 

[RetiredSteelWorker]

Some of these plastic tabs can be a huge PITA.

I was surprised how easy this one came out when I did my first oil change.

Did you get it put back together on your GX?

Will get it back together this evening. Just picked up the part today.

I want to dry fit it first (considering the aggravation I went through), but I don't see why I couldn't reattach the two plates and then push in the tab a few days later. Might have some extra noise generated from vibration, and one extra visit under the vehicle, but that's about it.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I'm doing the "500 mile" change on my wife's GX (now at 630 ish miles) after a short road trip from LA to Santa Barbara-Solvang-LA. That push pin looks like the bugger in the soup. Is it easier to just drop that front cover/air dam?

It turns out her Premium+ doesn't have this engine "skidplate". Easy access for probably the only time I plan to be under there. 7 and some change quarts of Toyota 0w20, no filter change. It has a full lifetime warranty and service plan or whatever the max package was.

 

[RetiredSteelWorker]

I'm doing the "500 mile" change on my wife's GX (now at 630 ish miles) after a short road trip from LA to Santa Barbara-Solvang-LA. That push pin looks like the bugger in the soup. Is it easier to just drop that front cover/air dam?

It turns out her Premium+ doesn't have this engine "skidplate". Easy access for probably the only time I plan to be under there. 7 and some change quarts of Toyota 0w20, no filter change. It has a full lifetime warranty and service plan or whatever the max package was.

A skid plate should be there, if not it's missing.

I suspect the words being used (skid plate, air dam, etc.) to describe the various pieces are messing with all of us. That being so, I've been meaning to post some notes, so here goes.

It's worth noting for OT models here are three different covers (plates) to remove. For Prem and Lux, there are only two covers (plates) to remove. This statement and the part names and images in the following list are from the Toyota/Lexus service manuals (thread) I have access to via my local public library.

The video in the original post in this thread shows a Lux model, so two plates not three, and the OP only removes one of the two (he leaves the Air Dam on).

Common (slang) Name	Full, complete Lexus-Toyota part name from service manual	Illustration	Notes
Skid Plate	No. 1 Engine Under Cover (for Off Road Package)		On OT models only. The Toyota manual uses the words "for Off Road Package only."
Air Dam	Front Bumper Guard Base Cover		Made of soft (ish) plastic-vinyl like material, light in weight.
Skid Plate	No. 1 Engine Under Cover Sub-Assembly		Rigid Metal, 4 fasteners. Two small tabs on the front side, small-dashed rectangles in the image, make it easy to hinge (swing up & down) and re-attach. The trade-off is these tabs make it hard to detach without taking off the Front Bumper Guard Base Cover (Air Dam).

 

[roaniecowpony]

A skid plate should be there, if not it's missing.

I suspect the words being used (skid plate, air dam, etc.) to describe the various pieces are messing with all of us. That being so, I've been meaning to post some notes, so here goes.

It's worth noting for OT models here are three different covers (plates) to remove. For Prem and Lux, there are only two covers (plates) to remove. This statement and the part names and images in the following list are from the Toyota/Lexus service manuals (thread) I have access to via my local public library.

The video in the original post in this thread shows a Lux model, so two plates not three, and the OP only removes one of the two (he leaves the Air Dam on).

Common (slang) Name	Full, complete Lexus-Toyota part name from service manual	Illustration	Notes
Skid Plate	No. 1 Engine Under Cover (for Off Road Package)	View attachment 16951	On OT models only. The Toyota manual uses the words "for Off Road Package only."
Air Dam	Front Bumper Guard Base Cover	View attachment 16950	Made of soft (ish) plastic-vinyl like material, light in weight.
Skid Plate	No. 1 Engine Under Cover Sub-Assembly	View attachment 16949	Rigid Metal, 4 fasteners. Two small tabs on the front side, small-dashed rectangles in the image, make it easy to hinge (swing up & down) and re-attach. The trade-off is these tabs make it hard to detach without taking off the Front Bumper Guard Base Cover (Air Dam).

I have no doubt it was never there as delivered. I've seen various makers deliver vehicles with non-essential components missing when production is stressed for one reason or another.

 

[Roman]

I have no doubt it was never there as delivered. I've seen various makers deliver vehicles with non-essential components missing when production is stressed for one reason or another.

Every single GX550 came with "A" skid plate. The OT models have the aluminum ones and the rest have the black steel one. If you don't have one, it was either removed and they forgot to put it back or was stolen...

 

[roaniecowpony]

Every single GX550 came with "A" skid plate. The OT models have the aluminum ones and the rest have the black steel one. If you don't have one, it was either removed and they forgot to put it back or was stolen...

In online searches I'm getting information that the OT comes with the engine skid, but the rest don't. Possibly, a 2025 change? This vehicle hasn't been to the dealer for service. It did go in shortly after we bought it for ceramic coat. But it only had about 50 miles on it, so there would be no service under the engine.

 

[roaniecowpony]

My error. The "skid plate" is there and it's steel. It was so short and wasn't necessary to remove it to drain the pan, that I hardly noticed it. I didn't change the filter at this drain, so if it's necessary to remove that "skid plate" to replace the filter, I never got to that point.

 

[Roman]

My error. The "skid plate" is there and it's steel. It was so short and wasn't necessary to remove it to drain the pan, that I hardly noticed it. I didn't change the filter at this drain, so if it's necessary to remove that "skid plate" to replace the filter, I never got to that point.

Yes, you only need to remove it for the filter and not the plug.

 

[Harry1983]

is it possible to replace oil filter without removing protection skid plate?

 

[Harry1983]

is it possible to replace oil filter without removing protection skid plate?

Well, I changed my oil today for the first time ever, and the most difficult part was removing the skid plate because the bolts were screwed in so tightly. That made me think about the dealership—whether they actually changed the oil filter or not—because the bolts looked almost new. I’m 99% sure they had never been unscrewed before. If they were never removed, then there’s no way the oil filter could have been changed—it’s just impossible.
Also, after 5,000 miles, the oil was very black. I’m not sure if that’s normal or not, but when I took it to an oil change shop for recycling, the mechanic asked how many miles were on the oil. When I told him only 5,000 miles, he was surprised by its condition. That’s another red flag about whether the dealership is actually changing the oil.

 

[RetiredSteelWorker]

A tip, or two:

• All bolts, aka 'threaded fasteners' will have torque specs. The specs for non OT/OT+ models skid plates are listed upthread.
• Don't go by how dark black the used oil is. Picking up products of combustion is part of the oil's job and therefore expected. The true measure of how oil performed is found via an oil analysis. Search in here, cost range is from $40 to $80 per sample. You need to collect a sample as the oil drains out of the pan because you don't know what contaminants are introduced by the storage container, even by an oil drain pan. P.S: I'm not sure I'd put much faith in anyone's quick visual inspection of used engine oil, even an experienced mechanic.

 

[Sixgun95]

I used to me a mechanic 20 yrs ago and this might be an overkill.
I would just recommend:
After draining the pan oil, close the plug and put in a 1/3 or half bottle of oil. let it go through the oil channels moving the old oil and drain again. This helps a little with flushing / pushing remaining oil and reduces contaminated oil in the pan. It is impossible to remove it all but if someone wants, this works well... Considering that the GX takes around 7.7 quarts. Using the .3 quarts to flush works out (carefully not to put too much Lol).

Thats ridiculous and certainly not needed. Is it in the manual? Nope!