Full Suspension Lifts for the GX 550 (2 Viewers)

Are those Trailhunter arms from a new 4Runner? Or an aftermarket supplier?
Yeah, they are from the 4runner.

TrailHunter upper arms
48630-0W020
48610-0W020

I believe these are the TrailHunter part numbers for the shocks, but do you own research.
Front OME\ARB TrailHunter shock (I think this works on the left or right side)
PTR13-89250-FR

Rear OME\ARB TrailHunter shocks
PTR13-89250-RR
PTR13-89250-RL


Aslo if you want the TRD Pro parts:
upper arms:
48630-0W010
48610-0W010

Front Fox TRD Pro shocks
PTR61-89250-RF
PTR61-89250-LF

Rear Fox TRD Pro shocks
PTR61-89250-RR
PTR61-89250-LR

I put these on my LC250 but required removing the front frame mounted bumps stops for now, until I figure out a new bracket. The adjustment knob on the shocks interfere with it.
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20250805_164146.jpg
 
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Well, I'm on my way to upgrading my suspension. Just ordered these:

Now to decide on which springs & shocks I want to install. I really want to try the new Bilstein 8112s but they don't have an application for our GX550s yet and there's no telling when they will. I'm heavily leaning toward the King 2.5s.

Camburg UCAs.jpg
Camburg rear arms.jpg
 
I’m doing a full OME MT64 lift (front and rear) and new OME UCAs on October 13th. Will let you know how it looks/rides, etc. Middle spring rate since a have a heavy Alu-Cab 3R on top, a bunch of gear, and 2 large dogs.
 
Well, I'm on my way to upgrading my suspension. Just ordered these:

Now to decide on which springs & shocks I want to install. I really want to try the new Bilstein 8112s but they don't have an application for our GX550s yet and there's no telling when they will. I'm heavily leaning toward the King 2.5s.

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Your going to feel everything with those Heim style control arms
 
Explain please
No rubber bushings … the heims and the ball joint will transmit a lot of the road …. And not to mention… most alignment shops won’t even make an adjustment on the heims so it’s almost like what are you really paying for …. Not trying to sound pessimistic but if you get them , make your adjustment on the heims before installing, most alignment shops don’t understand how they work…. Also keep in mind those ball joints can make more noise than some people would like, very function first over comfort
 
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Bilstein's would be great but I'm loving my Kings
You are the reason I’m leaning towards King. The Bilsteins look fantastic but if they don’t make them for our trucks, what’s the point?
No rubber bushings … the heims and the ball joint will transmit a lot of the road …. And not to mention… most alignment shops won’t even make an adjustment on the heims so it’s almost like what are you really paying for …. Not trying to sound pessimistic but if you get them , make your adjustment on the heims before installing, most alignment shops don’t understand how they work…. Also keep in mind those ball joints can make more noise than some people would like, very function first over comfort
Thank you for your explanation....I will look into this some more. I don't want to listen to the joints or unnecessarily sacrifice comfort.
 
Well, I'm on my way to upgrading my suspension. Just ordered these:

Now to decide on which springs & shocks I want to install. I really want to try the new Bilstein 8112s but they don't have an application for our GX550s yet and there's no telling when they will. I'm heavily leaning toward the King 2.5s.

View attachment 15713View attachment 15714
A bit of learning for me…
Therefore not sure how authoritative, accurate or reliable this basic explanation is from ShockSurplus.com:

““Why would I want/not want a uniball or heim jointed arm?

Without a doubt spherical, heim, or uniball joints provide the most potential strength compared to other joints that use rubber or another soft material to encapsulate the inside of the joint. They will have the least amount of deflection at the joint and will take the heaviest hits.

However, since there is not any rubber inside the joint, and they are very difficult to fully seal, they will require more maintenance, make more noise, transmit more NVH to the driver, and will need more regular replacement. Arms that have heim joints for the frame side mounts also generally have some adjustment for a moderate amount of additional camber and caster correction. Maybe not the best for a daily driver, however, they should be the number one choice for racers.””

There is additional adjustment steps info further down the same webpage.
 
A bit of learning for me…
Therefore not sure how authoritative, accurate or reliable this basic explanation is from ShockSurplus.com:

““Why would I want/not want a uniball or heim jointed arm?

Without a doubt spherical, heim, or uniball joints provide the most potential strength compared to other joints that use rubber or another soft material to encapsulate the inside of the joint. They will have the least amount of deflection at the joint and will take the heaviest hits.

However, since there is not any rubber inside the joint, and they are very difficult to fully seal, they will require more maintenance, make more noise, transmit more NVH to the driver, and will need more regular replacement. Arms that have heim joints for the frame side mounts also generally have some adjustment for a moderate amount of additional camber and caster correction. Maybe not the best for a daily driver, however, they should be the number one choice for racers.””

There is additional adjustment steps info further down the same webpage.
This is very accurate information as Camburg said the same thing. I have the Camburg Kinetic UCAs which are cleaned and sprayed with Tri-Flow.

Cleaning involves turning the wheel for easier access to the joints, wipe off dirt using microfiber towel, then spray with Tri-Flow. This keeps the joints lubricated for noise free operation. I'm often in the dirt so need to keep up with the cleaning schedule.
 
I would agree with that DJ and note problems I had using fancy adjustable billet arms (Icon) on my Cruiser. The method they used to fix the "adjusted" length failed and couldn't be tightened. Tossed them for some non-adjustable, rubber bushing type arms (SPC) that were stronger where it counts - hitting on rocks. No need for fancy high maintenance joints. Perhaps frequent suspension changes could warrant the adjustable arms.
 

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