Sometimes it’s not about the warranty. I’d like to put 200k or more on mine and am doing the same thing.
Oil changes with testing
- Thread starter BostonNewbie
- Start date
I just had my 6 month check, mileage about 2600, and I asked about the oil change. The Advisor said "What oil Change?" I asked if the oil was not going to be changed and he said no - That happens at 10k. I said - Ok, it is your warranty.
All the vehicles I have owned since late 1990s I have changed the oil at 10k with Mobil 1. I have never had any issues with oil, oil use or engine damage. I pulled a couple of samples and there were never any issues with engines/oil useage. I quit sampling.
All the vehicles I have owned since late 1990s I have changed the oil at 10k with Mobil 1. I have never had any issues with oil, oil use or engine damage. I pulled a couple of samples and there were never any issues with engines/oil useage. I quit sampling.
I did more research and I have been told that the high Moly levels in the initial UOA is from the assembly line they used when the engine was assembled. This explains why everyone’s initial UOA shows high moly and all subsequent samples never have moly levels as high as the baseline sample. Nothing to see here. Totally normal.
While can’t confirm for GX, I know this was a topic for the FL5. Everyone’s UOA was showing high moly for factory fill. Turns out being the oil, which isn’t sold in the US therefore not used at dealers. I ended up going with HPL which showed similar amounts of moly as ff.
The Youtube "Car Care Nut" mechanic suggested that oil changes be more frequent than regular aspirated engines. On his Tundra with the same engine he is changing it less than 5000 mile intervals. I am doing the same. Just did my 500 mile break in. Going to do 1000, 3000 and maybe 4000 intervals. As he said oil is cheaper than engines. Additionally I drive mostly City which is bad for the engine.
I came back to reread this thread after finding the linked YT video. Warning, the video gets seriously geeky very quickly.
The video is from the guy behind SPEEDiagnostix. He starts out talking about the first oil change (500 miles) in his daughter’s new 2023 Toyota Corolla.
About 1/3 into the video he starts a deep dive talking about oil analysis numbers and PPM readings and differences in oil, oil additives, blah blah blah … the geekiness about tribology shoots up and remains off the charts for the remainder of the video.
Points I found interesting:
The video is from the guy behind SPEEDiagnostix. He starts out talking about the first oil change (500 miles) in his daughter’s new 2023 Toyota Corolla.
About 1/3 into the video he starts a deep dive talking about oil analysis numbers and PPM readings and differences in oil, oil additives, blah blah blah … the geekiness about tribology shoots up and remains off the charts for the remainder of the video.
Points I found interesting:
- He takes a sample of new clean oil to use as a baseline in the future. Same as @BostonNewbie does in his original post.
- After the oil is drained and the drain plug is still open, he sacrifices one bottle of new clean oil to flush out any remnants of new engine wear debris (mentioned at 6:08). The old filter is still on when he does this.
- He says Exxon Mobil makes Toyota’s motor oil.
- He says apply new, clean oil into the new filter, and (of course) on the gasket on the new filter.
Change mine at 5k miles after the first change.
Assembly lube?
I just changed the oil in my wife's at about 630 miles. No sample, no extra quart to flush. I saw a Youtube where the guy said there was a failure problem with these engines, due to contamination of the oil. I think I'll change it again in 1000 miles. Then probably do 5000 mile OCIs. Since I paid for full mechanical service, I'm sure they'll want to go the full distance of the recommended OCI. That means I'll likely do a change in the middle.
My 2026 Tundra (same engine) has oil that looks like water. I'm not talking viscosity. I'm talking appearance. I've never seen oil that clear in my (long) life----except for mineral oil.
According to Lake Speed Jr., break-in continues for about 10k miles. I'll be doing the 1k, 5k oil changes. I'll change other fluids at 30-40,000.
According to Lake Speed Jr., break-in continues for about 10k miles. I'll be doing the 1k, 5k oil changes. I'll change other fluids at 30-40,000.
Tells me the oil sample is NORMAL for a new engine going through break in. If this is the first oil sample taken, there is NO PREVIOUS sample and the analysis indicates a new engine just starting into the break-in. Those particular numbers with red indication will trend up/stay high until the engine reaches a point which indicates the engine is "broken in" and should reduce in value to a steady state value.
That is my experience with oil sampling starting with a new engine. Just talk to Lexus and get their input.
Best....
My friend, Lexus/Toyota let the robots send out thousands of defective engines with NO quality control whatsoever. With that in mind, do you really think they give a shit about science and oil samples?
Sample of 3. I had 3 GM pickups with LS/LT engines. I did not change the oil in any of them until the oil change light came on. I used Mobil 1 from the first change. One is at about 300k miles and running fine (2000 iron block 6.0 no AFM), the next one is 325k miles and it has failed the AFM lifters (2008 6.0 alum block), the third is my current truck and is about 110k miles going strong (5.3 D.I. alum block).
So, my conclusion is that it doesn't matter, IF the engine components were cleaned well .
That said, with the possibility of debris from manufacturing in the oil, it's just insurance to drain and change early once or twice. It cost me a few $ in oil and maybe 30-45 minutes of my time, with all the ramp and drain stuff.
Agree with roaniecowpony 100%. I haven't seen any studies correlating early break in oil changes with wear over the life of the engine.
All I can say is increased wear contaminants from piston ring & bearing break in are consistently, reliably measurable, and their reduction as the engine breaks in is also consistently, reliably measurable. Same thing with contaminants from manufacturing, like silicon from gaskets. The largest concentration of those contaminants occur when it's brand new breaking in, and right before the engine blows up.
As an enthusiast (I mean - I'm on a GX forum, fer crying out loud), I theorize that purer oil with less contaminants is ultimately better for my engine, so I change the oil early to get them out. It's like $60 and an hour of my time, so why not? Plus - fresh oil can only help flush out any larger particles that * ahem * might not have been cleaned during manufacturing, as roaniecowpony said.
I doubt you'll be able to tell if your engine had an early break in oil change - your maintenance habits have a much larger impact on engine longevity; but I look at an early oil change as getting ahead of good maintenance as soon as possible.
All I can say is increased wear contaminants from piston ring & bearing break in are consistently, reliably measurable, and their reduction as the engine breaks in is also consistently, reliably measurable. Same thing with contaminants from manufacturing, like silicon from gaskets. The largest concentration of those contaminants occur when it's brand new breaking in, and right before the engine blows up.
As an enthusiast (I mean - I'm on a GX forum, fer crying out loud), I theorize that purer oil with less contaminants is ultimately better for my engine, so I change the oil early to get them out. It's like $60 and an hour of my time, so why not? Plus - fresh oil can only help flush out any larger particles that * ahem * might not have been cleaned during manufacturing, as roaniecowpony said.
I doubt you'll be able to tell if your engine had an early break in oil change - your maintenance habits have a much larger impact on engine longevity; but I look at an early oil change as getting ahead of good maintenance as soon as possible.
We're on a road trip in my wife's 2025, up from socal to Sonoma/Napa. Looks like it'll have about 2200 - 2300 miles on it before I can do the second change.
I have found (through Chat-gpt so take with grain of salt) that "mid-2025" manufactured V35A in Tahara Plant was when the new "robust" bearings were used. Unfortunately mine was built March 2025 so all I have to hope for is that the debris issue was the culprit. However according to Carcare Nut and others it seems like maybe it is the main bearing. I changed mine at 500, 1000, and 3000. Going to keep doing 3000 intervals.
I thought the "robust" bearing update occured around April of 2024? I seem to remember the Car Care Nut talking about it in one of his videos. As you, I'm not positive, just going off of memory and the www.
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