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Went on a quick camping trip this past weekend for my buddy's birthday. It was pretty chilly (about 39 degrees at night) and the Bambed in the back of the truck was much appreciated. It was a full moon (or 1 day past) so I also whipped out the Weathertech full window blackout shades. Those things are cool! They all fit perfectly and they easily wedge in place, except for the 2 cargo window shades - these are cut perfectly but they don't have an edge to wedge behind so they just kind of set in place and can fall out easily. I'll have to put a couple little tabs in the plastic surrounding the windows to provide a place for them to wedge behind.

As a special birthday surprise for my buddy's 61st, I got us good and stuck in bottomless mud to start off the trip. This entrance to the river wash has always been passable but not anymore after record rains in October and November. Last time we were here was late September. Now the whole entrance is a giant mud pit. I had the frame on the mud and all 4 wheels just spun. We got out of the truck and promptly sunk - his side was more watery and he sunk to his knees and I only sunk to mid-shins. It was the kind of mud where you can barely lift your foot out and you are in danger of pulling your boots right off. Luckily 3 side-by-sides came by and 2 used their winches to hook up to my pull strap and pull me out backwards. There was nowhere forward for me to winch to, just more mud. Once they pulled me about 5 feet and out of the suction, the DAC/Crawl feature in 4-low worked very well to inch me backwards out of the mud. My Maxtrax boards are gone, disappeared in the mud. I'll have to go back and dig for them when it dries out a bit more. That's 300 bucks down there!

Took some very interesting photos in the near-full moonlight. With the shutter on the iphone adjusted to max (10-seconds), it makes the moonlit canyon look just like daylight.

IMG_9173.JPG

You can see where the bottom of my truck smoothed out the mud on the right side.

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In the photo above, it's pitch black out and the canyon wall in the background is lit by the moonlight. The truck is lit by the firelight.

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Here the rising moon is illuminating about 3/4 of the truck with the back still in the dark.

IMG_9233.JPG

Here's the same photo but from the other side. The fire and our camp is in the pitch-black dark and that's just moonlight illuminating everything else.
 
Fortunately there was a good 200 feet of gravel-bottom river to drive through on the way out with about 1-foot deep water. I drove back & forth about 10 times. Then I did a job today where I subcontracted a vac truck and a pressure washing trailer. I got about 95% of the mud off and out from the undercarriage with my sub's pressure washer.
 
Fortunately there was a good 200 feet of gravel-bottom river to drive through on the way out with about 1-foot deep water. I drove back & forth about 10 times. Then I did a job today where I subcontracted a vac truck and a pressure washing trailer. I got about 95% of the mud off and out from the undercarriage with my sub's pressure washer.
By the way, did you get your Kings installed? How's the ride now?
 
By the way, did you get your Kings installed? How's the ride now?
No Kings yet. Still waiting on the Camburg upper control arms, which should arrive here the day I leave for Mexico for 10 days. Going to have to push the installation back to early January.
 
Went on a quick camping trip this past weekend for my buddy's birthday. It was pretty chilly (about 39 degrees at night) and the Bambed in the back of the truck was much appreciated. It was a full moon (or 1 day past) so I also whipped out the Weathertech full window blackout shades. Those things are cool! They all fit perfectly and they easily wedge in place, except for the 2 cargo window shades - these are cut perfectly but they don't have an edge to wedge behind so they just kind of set in place and can fall out easily. I'll have to put a couple little tabs in the plastic surrounding the windows to provide a place for them to wedge behind.

As a special birthday surprise for my buddy's 61st, I got us good and stuck in bottomless mud to start off the trip. This entrance to the river wash has always been passable but not anymore after record rains in October and November. Last time we were here was late September. Now the whole entrance is a giant mud pit. I had the frame on the mud and all 4 wheels just spun. We got out of the truck and promptly sunk - his side was more watery and he sunk to his knees and I only sunk to mid-shins. It was the kind of mud where you can barely lift your foot out and you are in danger of pulling your boots right off. Luckily 3 side-by-sides came by and 2 used their winches to hook up to my pull strap and pull me out backwards. There was nowhere forward for me to winch to, just more mud. Once they pulled me about 5 feet and out of the suction, the DAC/Crawl feature in 4-low worked very well to inch me backwards out of the mud. My Maxtrax boards are gone, disappeared in the mud. I'll have to go back and dig for them when it dries out a bit more. That's 300 bucks down there!

Took some very interesting photos in the near-full moonlight. With the shutter on the iphone adjusted to max (10-seconds), it makes the moonlit canyon look just like daylight.

View attachment 17606
You can see where the bottom of my truck smoothed out the mud on the right side.

View attachment 17607

View attachment 17608

View attachment 17609
In the photo above, it's pitch black out and the canyon wall in the background is lit by the moonlight. The truck is lit by the firelight.

View attachment 17610
Here the rising moon is illuminating about 3/4 of the truck with the back still in the dark.

View attachment 17611
Here's the same photo but from the other side. The fire and our camp is in the pitch-black dark and that's just moonlight illuminating everything else.
Great pictures - rig is looking fantastic!
 
Finally got around to driving the Apache Trail east of Phoenix yesterday. This is one of the most scenic drives in Arizona. The road closed back in 2019 after a rockslide on one of the steepest parts above the Fish Creek Canyon bridge. They finally reopened it in September 2024. I haven't been down there in about 20 years. A buddy and I camped a few miles up Fish Creek Canyon over New Year's 2000 to 2001 so I also hiked back up the Canyon to revisit all the cool rock piles. There are sections where absolutely massive bus-sized boulders are all jumbled together. The GX did great, as usual. About half of the drive is tight & twisty canyon asphalt and Sport+ mode was fun. Then it hits dirt and of course the GX was right at home. Did a bit of a harder side trail called Tortilla Trail too.

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Great pics and post - adding this to my list of first runs with my ‘25 GX OT.

Is that rocky pic from the harder Tortilla trail you mentioned?

I’m also in the valley and would love to know more about any Phoenix-area groups that do organized trail runs or multi-day camping trips.

I’m new to Lexus, the GX model and to off-road wheeling but wife and I bought our new rig for both the luxury (older backs and hips) as well as for getting out on the trails, camping, etc.

So I am a sponge for all of this type of info.
 
Great pics and post - adding this to my list of first runs with my ‘25 GX OT.

Is that rocky pic from the harder Tortilla trail you mentioned?

I’m also in the valley and would love to know more about any Phoenix-area groups that do organized trail runs or multi-day camping trips.

I’m new to Lexus, the GX model and to off-road wheeling but wife and I bought our new rig for both the luxury (older backs and hips) as well as for getting out on the trails, camping, etc.

So I am a sponge for all of this type of info.
Hello!

Yes, the rocky last pic is Tortilla Trail. I didn't have time to go too far down this particular trail. The whole Apache Trail is a great drive.

I met a nice guy named Jackson that has an older GX. He bought my rubber floor mats a couple months ago. He sent me this link as a local Toyota/Lexus club that gets together for trail runs:

AZ- Copper State Cruisers

I haven't explored it at all. I'm just not much into clubs and group outings. When I go off road or camping it's usually planned less than 24 hours in advance.

There's also a facebook group AZ LC250 | GX550 that does some trail runs. I joined but haven't participated in at all yet:
Log into Facebook

I'm actually going to try to make it to Westcott Designs' Rigs & Roast this coming Saturday, January 10th if my job Thursday & Friday in Utah wraps up as planned.

Rigs N Roast 2025 - 2026 Events - Westcott Designs™
 
Hello!

Yes, the rocky last pic is Tortilla Trail. I didn't have time to go too far down this particular trail. The whole Apache Trail is a great drive.

I met a nice guy named Jackson that has an older GX. He bought my rubber floor mats a couple months ago. He sent me this link as a local Toyota/Lexus club that gets together for trail runs:

AZ- Copper State Cruisers

I haven't explored it at all. I'm just not much into clubs and group outings. When I go off road or camping it's usually planned less than 24 hours in advance.

There's also a facebook group AZ LC250 | GX550 that does some trail runs. I joined but haven't participated in at all yet:
Log into Facebook

I'm actually going to try to make it to Westcott Designs' Rigs & Roast this coming Saturday, January 10th if my job Thursday & Friday in Utah wraps up as planned.

Rigs N Roast 2025 - 2026 Events - Westcott Designs™
@Bluegill thanks a ton for the links and suggestions!

I’ll probably make an appearance at that Rigs n’ Roast on Sat 1/10.

I need some aftermarket stuff and have zeroed in on Westcott and want to plan out some near-term needs and long term wants with them.

Thanks a ton!
 
It's been too long since I've done something interesting to Junior, my GX550. It seems like I've been waiting a year and a day for my Camburg Upper Control Arms. I waited a little over 3 months with promises of any week now and I cancelled my order when they finally said 8 to 10 more weeks. I scheduled my King suspension installation at Westcott Designs for their first available date, January 26th. I'm going with Icon UCAs which Westcott has in stock. That was easy. On another note, my December 1st order of a 6-pack of Camburg "King blue" stickers arrived yesterday. How ironic.

Anyway, tonight I was tinkering, as my wife says, and I finally finished my new shovel mounts for my roof rack.

After my December to Remember adventure in the new mud pit at my favorite local camping spot, I realized that I need a good shovel that you can actually dig with for a good amount of time without breaking your back or making your hands raw. I have carried my father's US Army-issue folding shovel for over 30 years but it's more suited for digging fire pits and single-serving field latrines. Since I'm not a $300-super-off-road-overlander-Armageddon-spiked-razor-sharp-shovel-zombie-survival-tool kind of guy, I looked for a useful and somewhat classy alternative. After far too much research, I settled on the Kent & Stowe border spade which is a quality 41" long English stainless steel spade with an ash handle. Two requirements were stainless steel and a wooden handle with a real hand grip. I hate the simple straight handles that dig into your palm with any amount of real work. I'm not a soft hands guy but I also don't dig holes for a living. I found this fine English tool at Walmart online, of all places. $92 shipped to my door. Only £39.99 on Kent & Stowe's UK website which is about $54 but then you have shipping and import taxes on top of that...a few clicks on Walmart's website and it appeared on my doorstep.

1.JPG

IMG_9975.JPG

I chose this shovel size and shape because it's good for swiping sand away in a rowing motion as you're on your knees by the truck, such as scooping sand and gravel away from behind the tires. The size (blade is 9" long x 5.5" wide) is good for moving some material but also not so big that you're trying to move too much weight with each scoop. Same for mud. You can cut in manageable scoops instead of trying to move a 40-lb clod of wet mud with each scoop.

In keeping with my quest to keep my roof rack as low-profile as possible, I didn't want to bolt on a shovel mount that stuck up a few inches, thereby losing my garage clearance. I also don't really have clearance on the side of my low-profile rack to strap on a shovel without hitting the body of the truck. Most shovel mounts from the Armageddon crew are also nearly as expensive as the $300 Armageddon shovels. I figured I'd just be throwing the shovel in the cargo bay with all my other junk and then I had an idea.

Years ago I bought a couple of folding & locking hinge mounts on Amazon for some long-forgotten truck-related project. These look like the same brackets. They sat in a little box on the back of my workbench forever. A couple months ago I cleaned off my workbench and I relocated them. As I lay awake in bed one night at about 3:00 AM thinking of stupid random things like mounting a shovel on top of my truck, I remembered these hinges. The next day I had to tear apart the garage cabinets to find them because of course I forgot where I put them. Then I spent a good 2 weeks moving the project forward in very small increments, as is my way.

I found the perfect rubber mounts at Harbor Freight (Vehicle-Mount Rubber Tool Clamp). $2.99 each. Take that, $250 Armageddon zombie apocalypse shovel mount companies. I had to use my Dremel to cut down the flanges on the hinges to clear the roof when folded, and also cut down stainless steel bolts to fit just right in the hinge and in tracks on my rack and into the Harbor Freight rubber clamps. I removed a cross bar to get the bolts all in the proper places on my workbench, reinstalled the cross bar, and it works exactly as designed.

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Next updates to this page will be the Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System that JoeMing posted over on the Modifications page. Then it will be King suspension time! And then in February the Beatsonic Sigma Amplifier that we've all seen on the Modifications page. The reviews were so good that I dropped the $800 on the amp.
 
Thanks for the educating and entertaining post. You're using your GX for what it was built for. I always learn from your posts. Good luck with the King install. I'm sure you're going to love it.
 
It's been too long since I've done something interesting to Junior, my GX550. It seems like I've been waiting a year and a day for my Camburg Upper Control Arms. I waited a little over 3 months with promises of any week now and I cancelled my order when they finally said 8 to 10 more weeks. I scheduled my King suspension installation at Westcott Designs for their first available date, January 26th. I'm going with Icon UCAs which Westcott has in stock. That was easy. On another note, my December 1st order of a 6-pack of Camburg "King blue" stickers arrived yesterday. How ironic.

Anyway, tonight I was tinkering, as my wife says, and I finally finished my new shovel mounts for my roof rack.

After my December to Remember adventure in the new mud pit at my favorite local camping spot, I realized that I need a good shovel that you can actually dig with for a good amount of time without breaking your back or making your hands raw. I have carried my father's US Army-issue folding shovel for over 30 years but it's more suited for digging fire pits and single-serving field latrines. Since I'm not a $300-super-off-road-overlander-Armageddon-spiked-razor-sharp-shovel-zombie-survival-tool kind of guy, I looked for a useful and somewhat classy alternative. After far too much research, I settled on the Kent & Stowe border spade which is a quality 41" long English stainless steel spade with an ash handle. Two requirements were stainless steel and a wooden handle with a real hand grip. I hate the simple straight handles that dig into your palm with any amount of real work. I'm not a soft hands guy but I also don't dig holes for a living. I found this fine English tool at Walmart online, of all places. $92 shipped to my door. Only £39.99 on Kent & Stowe's UK website which is about $54 but then you have shipping and import taxes on top of that...a few clicks on Walmart's website and it appeared on my doorstep.

View attachment 18594
View attachment 18595
I chose this shovel size and shape because it's good for swiping sand away in a rowing motion as you're on your knees by the truck, such as scooping sand and gravel away from behind the tires. The size (blade is 9" long x 5.5" wide) is good for moving some material but also not so big that you're trying to move too much weight with each scoop. Same for mud. You can cut in manageable scoops instead of trying to move a 40-lb clod of wet mud with each scoop.

In keeping with my quest to keep my roof rack as low-profile as possible, I didn't want to bolt on a shovel mount that stuck up a few inches, thereby losing my garage clearance. I also don't really have clearance on the side of my low-profile rack to strap on a shovel without hitting the body of the truck. Most shovel mounts from the Armageddon crew are also nearly as expensive as the $300 Armageddon shovels. I figured I'd just be throwing the shovel in the cargo bay with all my other junk and then I had an idea.

Years ago I bought a couple of folding & locking hinge mounts on Amazon for some long-forgotten truck-related project. These look like the same brackets. They sat in a little box on the back of my workbench forever. A couple months ago I cleaned off my workbench and I relocated them. As I lay awake in bed one night at about 3:00 AM thinking of stupid random things like mounting a shovel on top of my truck, I remembered these hinges. The next day I had to tear apart the garage cabinets to find them because of course I forgot where I put them. Then I spent a good 2 weeks moving the project forward in very small increments, as is my way.

I found the perfect rubber mounts at Harbor Freight (Vehicle-Mount Rubber Tool Clamp). $2.99 each. Take that, $250 Armageddon zombie apocalypse shovel mount companies. I had to use my Dremel to cut down the flanges on the hinges to clear the roof when folded, and also cut down stainless steel bolts to fit just right in the hinge and in tracks on my rack and into the Harbor Freight rubber clamps. I removed a cross bar to get the bolts all in the proper places on my workbench, reinstalled the cross bar, and it works exactly as designed.

View attachment 18596

View attachment 18597

View attachment 18598

View attachment 18599

View attachment 18600

Next updates to this page will be the Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System that JoeMing posted over on the Modifications page. Then it will be King suspension time! And then in February the Beatsonic Sigma Amplifier that we've all seen on the Modifications page. The reviews were so good that I dropped the $800 on the amp.
Let e know how the exhaust goes - curious how it sounds too.
 
Installed the aFe Power Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System.

See this link also:
Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System


It's a quality item. It came to $330 shipped with a 10% coupon for signing up for emails on their website.

IMG_0120.jpg


IMG_0121.jpg


Installation was pretty simple. Getting to the bolts underneath is a bit difficult but the hardest part was getting the spring bolts/pins loose from the stock exhaust. aFe provides bolts and washers to anchor the stock pins to the aFe flange but they instruct you to re-use the actual springs, bolts securing the springs, and the pins.

My photos from underneath the truck of the spring bolts and disassembly and reassembly didn't turn out. Normally I'd crawl back under to re-take the photos to provide the best possible reader experience but I just dropped my truck off at Westcott Designs to have the King suspension installed. I beg your forgiveness. Here's a parts diagram showing where the spring bolts are in the system:

spring bolts.jpg


Once I removed the stock exhaust, I had to break the pins free from the stock flange by securing the stock exhaust in a vice and then screwing the spring bolts back down tight (without the springs) and over-torquing them a bit to break the pins free. I applied a little PB Blaster first. Then I had to grab the pin with a vice grip to get the bolt back off, then the pins spun free by hand. The stock square bolts on the backside of the flange that the pins screw into are welded in place.

IMG_0124.jpg


IMG_0125.jpg


The spring bolt holes on the aFe flange are bigger that the stock holes and the pins were loose in there so I used their washers on the bottom and a couple new washers on top under the nut they provided.
IMG_0126.jpg


I slipped the clamp on the tailpiece, fit everything together loosely, got the rubber hangers in place (a little dab of bearing grease helps), and then torqued down the spring bolts and then the clamp bolt.
IMG_0127.jpg


The exhaust tucks up much better than stock and no more looking at that ugly black resonator box under there. It sounds good, not too much louder than stock. It has a nice little snarl to it and, most importantly, no drone at cruising speeds. You can't even hear it on the highway. My wife didn't notice a thing, even standing outside of the garage waiting for me to back out when I started the truck. Then again, she didn't notice a new steel bumper and winch on an old Land Rover for nearly a year and she didn't notice the Westcott pre-load collar lift and new Method wheels and 35" tires on the GX until my son spilled the beans a few weeks after installation.

I've put links to short youtube video/sound clips on the other thread:

Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System
 
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Installed the aFe Power Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System.

See this link also:
Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System


It's a quality item. It came to $330 shipped with a 10% coupon for signing up for emails on their website.

View attachment 18894

View attachment 18895

Installation was pretty simple. Getting to the bolts underneath is a bit difficult but the hardest part was getting the spring bolts/pins loose from the stock exhaust. aFe provides bolts and washers to anchor the stock pins to the aFe flange but they instruct you to re-use the actual springs, bolts securing the springs, and the pins.

My photos from underneath the truck of the spring bolts and disassembly and reassembly didn't turn out. Normally I'd crawl back under to re-take the photos to provide the best possible reader experience but I just dropped my truck off at Westcott Designs to have the King suspension installed. I beg your forgiveness. Here's a parts diagram showing where the spring bolts are in the system:

View attachment 18900

Once I removed the stock exhaust, I had to break the pins free from the stock flange by securing the stock exhaust in a vice and then screwing the spring bolts back down tight (without the springs) and over-torquing them a bit to break the pins free. I applied a little PB Blaster first. Then I had to grab the pin with a vice grip to get the bolt back off, then the pins spun free by hand. The stock square bolts on the backside of the flange that the pins screw into are welded in place.

View attachment 18896

View attachment 18897

The spring bolt holes on the aFe flange are bigger that the stock holes and the pins were loose in there so I used their washers on the bottom and a couple new washers on top under the nut they provided.
View attachment 18898

I slipped the clamp on the tailpiece, fit everything together loosely, got the rubber hangers in place (a little dab of bearing grease helps), and then torqued down the spring bolts and then the clamp bolt.
View attachment 18899

The exhaust tucks up much better than stock and no more looking at that ugly black resonator box under there. It sounds good, not too much louder than stock. It has a nice little snarl to it and, most importantly, no drone at cruising speeds. You can't even hear it on the highway. My wife didn't notice a thing, even standing outside of the garage waiting for me to back out when I started the truck. Then again, she didn't notice a new steel bumper and winch on an old Land Rover for nearly a year and she didn't notice the Westcott pre-load collar lift and new Method wheels and 35" tires on the GX until my son spilled the beans a few weeks after installation.

I've put links to short youtube video/sound clips on the other thread:

Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System
Looks great - thanks for posting!
 
Nice! Don’t suppose you took a before pic of the factory exhaust? Does this new one just get it up and out of the way?
 
Installed the aFe Power Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System.

See this link also:
Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System


It's a quality item. It came to $330 shipped with a 10% coupon for signing up for emails on their website.

View attachment 18894

View attachment 18895

Installation was pretty simple. Getting to the bolts underneath is a bit difficult but the hardest part was getting the spring bolts/pins loose from the stock exhaust. aFe provides bolts and washers to anchor the stock pins to the aFe flange but they instruct you to re-use the actual springs, bolts securing the springs, and the pins.

My photos from underneath the truck of the spring bolts and disassembly and reassembly didn't turn out. Normally I'd crawl back under to re-take the photos to provide the best possible reader experience but I just dropped my truck off at Westcott Designs to have the King suspension installed. I beg your forgiveness. Here's a parts diagram showing where the spring bolts are in the system:

View attachment 18900

Once I removed the stock exhaust, I had to break the pins free from the stock flange by securing the stock exhaust in a vice and then screwing the spring bolts back down tight (without the springs) and over-torquing them a bit to break the pins free. I applied a little PB Blaster first. Then I had to grab the pin with a vice grip to get the bolt back off, then the pins spun free by hand. The stock square bolts on the backside of the flange that the pins screw into are welded in place.

View attachment 18896

View attachment 18897

The spring bolt holes on the aFe flange are bigger that the stock holes and the pins were loose in there so I used their washers on the bottom and a couple new washers on top under the nut they provided.
View attachment 18898

I slipped the clamp on the tailpiece, fit everything together loosely, got the rubber hangers in place (a little dab of bearing grease helps), and then torqued down the spring bolts and then the clamp bolt.
View attachment 18899

The exhaust tucks up much better than stock and no more looking at that ugly black resonator box under there. It sounds good, not too much louder than stock. It has a nice little snarl to it and, most importantly, no drone at cruising speeds. You can't even hear it on the highway. My wife didn't notice a thing, even standing outside of the garage waiting for me to back out when I started the truck. Then again, she didn't notice a new steel bumper and winch on an old Land Rover for nearly a year and she didn't notice the Westcott pre-load collar lift and new Method wheels and 35" tires on the GX until my son spilled the beans a few weeks after installation.

I've put links to short youtube video/sound clips on the other thread:

Vulcan Series 2-1/2 IN to 3 IN 304 Stainless Steel Axle-Back Exhaust System
would it be less of a hassle for me to just buy another set of spring bolts?

 
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