Finally got all the parts in for the install, Fedex lost one of the shocks!
Relatively strait forward install, although mistakes were made. I had only done one lift before on my Bronco but that gave me a playbook of sorts. Honestly most of the time was spent on electrical connectors (holy crap) and re-threading a CV axle. My son buzzed off the passenger side axle nut before I removed the detent on the nut. To be fair we are used to the traditional washer with a tab, however I did know that Toyota does the detented nut, just didn't communicate that apparently.
I thought I would share a couple photos of the process although I didn't get everything, mostly just the irritating parts.
Irritation #1: Right off the bat was the front shock connector. It is encased in this plastic retainer with 3 little clip things on each side, after that it opens up and you need to use a screwdriver to start pushing out the connector. There is an obvious spot to use the screwdriver and it doesn't take much to get it started then just pull out the connector.
After that it went to plan, well minus the rethread of the axel. Removed the axle nut and pounded the axle out of the hub. This part should be done even if you aren't removing it for damaged threads. Then I removed the brake line and speed sensor bolts, disconnected the upper control arm, tie rod and sway bar link. I removed the brake caliper, tied it out of the way and then I took the steering knuckle off so I didn't damage the CV. That part may not be necessary, but after removing the caliper is is only 2 more bolts. You do have to loosen the lower control arms, I marked the location with the paint pen to get them close upon reassembly, to be able to get the front shock in.
Here it is all put back together. Don't worry it was on jack stands, not just that jack.
The driver side was the same except that the upper control arm bolt can't come out due to some ECU. So that needs to be removed but before that you get to take out the air box.
Irritation #2: Kind of hard to see but the purple bolt runs into that finned ECU.
So you need to demate the 3 connectors and then undo 3 bolts and you can rotate it out of the way for the extremely long bolt to just be able to make it out.
The rears are extremely easy, although the shock connector is similar in style with a plastic retainer that then separate via tiny clips before you can demate at the below location.
I just taped over the connections on both the front and rear.
The spring installation was a bit of a bear because of the weight and awkward positioning, at least being on the ground. But they more or less just drop in with a little persuasion. Here is the height difference.
You do have to swap over the bumps stops.
Here is the sway bar relocation bracket, just drops it down a bit.
And then all done.
Next up is probably a trac bar relocation bracket.
Overall this isn't too bad of a job, even in a garage on jack stands. If the axle mishap wouldn't have happened I would say it is a 6-8 hour job. Maybe less if you have a good helper and/or you just cut the shock connections.
Luke
Relatively strait forward install, although mistakes were made. I had only done one lift before on my Bronco but that gave me a playbook of sorts. Honestly most of the time was spent on electrical connectors (holy crap) and re-threading a CV axle. My son buzzed off the passenger side axle nut before I removed the detent on the nut. To be fair we are used to the traditional washer with a tab, however I did know that Toyota does the detented nut, just didn't communicate that apparently.
I thought I would share a couple photos of the process although I didn't get everything, mostly just the irritating parts.
Irritation #1: Right off the bat was the front shock connector. It is encased in this plastic retainer with 3 little clip things on each side, after that it opens up and you need to use a screwdriver to start pushing out the connector. There is an obvious spot to use the screwdriver and it doesn't take much to get it started then just pull out the connector.
After that it went to plan, well minus the rethread of the axel. Removed the axle nut and pounded the axle out of the hub. This part should be done even if you aren't removing it for damaged threads. Then I removed the brake line and speed sensor bolts, disconnected the upper control arm, tie rod and sway bar link. I removed the brake caliper, tied it out of the way and then I took the steering knuckle off so I didn't damage the CV. That part may not be necessary, but after removing the caliper is is only 2 more bolts. You do have to loosen the lower control arms, I marked the location with the paint pen to get them close upon reassembly, to be able to get the front shock in.
Here it is all put back together. Don't worry it was on jack stands, not just that jack.
The driver side was the same except that the upper control arm bolt can't come out due to some ECU. So that needs to be removed but before that you get to take out the air box.
Irritation #2: Kind of hard to see but the purple bolt runs into that finned ECU.
So you need to demate the 3 connectors and then undo 3 bolts and you can rotate it out of the way for the extremely long bolt to just be able to make it out.
The rears are extremely easy, although the shock connector is similar in style with a plastic retainer that then separate via tiny clips before you can demate at the below location.
I just taped over the connections on both the front and rear.
The spring installation was a bit of a bear because of the weight and awkward positioning, at least being on the ground. But they more or less just drop in with a little persuasion. Here is the height difference.
You do have to swap over the bumps stops.
Here is the sway bar relocation bracket, just drops it down a bit.
And then all done.
Next up is probably a trac bar relocation bracket.
Overall this isn't too bad of a job, even in a garage on jack stands. If the axle mishap wouldn't have happened I would say it is a 6-8 hour job. Maybe less if you have a good helper and/or you just cut the shock connections.
Luke
